Bako National Park

The mangrove forest around Bako park headquarters is one of the most reliable places in the world to see wild proboscis monkeys. Every evening at dusk, troops of proboscis monkeys descend from the interior forest to feed and roost in the mangroves along the tidal creek near the headquarters — sometimes within 20 metres of the viewing platform. The males, with their extraordinary pendulous noses and pot bellies, are unmistakable. Arrive at the viewing platform by 5pm and wait quietly — the monkeys are predictable but not guaranteed, and patience is rewarded. Dawn is equally good, with the monkeys active in the mangroves before retreating into the forest as the day heats up.

The trail to Telok Pandan Kecil is one of the most rewarding in Bako — a 3.5 km walk through kerangas heath forest and dipterocarp jungle that emerges at a secluded beach flanked by dramatic sandstone sea stacks. The sea stacks at Telok Pandan Kecil are the most photographed feature of the park — their layered red and orange sandstone, sculpted by wave action into arches and columns, is extraordinary. The beach itself is beautiful and usually deserted. The trail takes approximately 1.5 hours each way and is moderately challenging — wear trail shoes and bring water.

The Lintang Loop is the most popular trail in Bako — a 5.5 km circuit that passes through every major vegetation type in the park, from mangrove and beach forest to kerangas heath and dipterocarp rainforest. The kerangas section is the highlight: the open, stunted heath forest is carpeted with pitcher plants, sundews, and other carnivorous plants growing in the nutrient-poor sandstone soil. At least four species of Nepenthes pitcher plants are found along this trail, some with pitchers large enough to trap small vertebrates. The loop takes approximately 3 hours and is well-marked.

Bako at night is one of the great wildlife experiences in Sarawak. Guided night walks from the park headquarters reveal a completely different cast of animals: western tarsiers — tiny, enormous-eyed primates clinging to tree trunks — are regularly seen on the trail edges; flying lizards glide between trees; frogs of extraordinary variety call from every puddle and stream; and the occasional bearded pig or mouse deer crosses the path in the torchlight. The park rangers lead guided night walks (book at the headquarters on arrival) or you can walk independently with a good headlamp on the well-lit main trail.

The beach directly in front of the park headquarters at Telok Assam is the most accessible in Bako — a sheltered cove of golden sand backed by casuarina trees, with calm water suitable for swimming when the tide is right. Long-tailed macaques patrol the beach constantly and will steal unattended food with impressive boldness — keep your bags closed. The beach is best in the early morning before the day-trippers arrive from Kuching, when the light is soft and the macaques are at their most active.

The trail to Tajor Waterfall is one of the longer day hikes in Bako — a 7 km return walk through primary dipterocarp rainforest to a freshwater waterfall and natural swimming pool deep in the park interior. The trail passes through some of the best wildlife habitat in the park, with good chances of seeing bearded pigs, monitor lizards, and a variety of forest birds. The waterfall itself is a beautiful spot for a swim and a rest before the return walk. Allow 4–5 hours return and bring plenty of water.

The sea cliffs and sea stacks of Bako are best appreciated from the water. Boat trips from the park headquarters run along the coastline, passing beneath the dramatic sandstone cliffs, through sea arches, and around the sea stacks that give the park its distinctive silhouette. The boat also accesses remote beaches that are unreachable on foot, including Telok Limau on the far eastern tip of the peninsula — a beautiful, completely isolated beach with excellent snorkelling. Arrange boat trips through the park headquarters (RM 50–100 per boat depending on destination).

You do not need to go far into the forest to see wildlife at Bako — the area around the park headquarters and canteen is one of the best wildlife-watching spots in the park. Bearded pigs — large, shaggy wild pigs endemic to Borneo — wander through the headquarters compound throughout the day, completely unperturbed by human presence. Long-tailed macaques are omnipresent and opportunistic. Silvered langurs move through the trees above the chalets in the early morning. Simply sitting quietly at the canteen with a coffee is often enough to see three or four species without moving.